Hanoi Travel Guide

Hanoi was everything I wanted it to be. A hectic blend of Vietnamese craftsmanship and French colonial architecture. Old world meets new. Authentic meets white women in elephant pants. 

THINGS TO NOTE

Motorcycle traffic

Get ready to dodge motorcycles! They are seemingly never ending, and stop signs/traffic lights are few and far between. The drivers, while relentless, are both cautious and nimble. They will work their way around you. The key is once you’re going, keep going. I was warned about this, but when I got to Vietnam, I found it much less hectic than traffic in Delhi, so if you’ve been to Delhi, this will feel like a breeze. If you haven’t, might take a second to get used to.

Rain
The climate in Hanoi felt very Pacific Northwest to me, as if rain is always on the horizon. I packed a small, collapsible umbrella that could fit in a purse and found it very handy, but most hotels also offer guest umbrellas available (though they’re typically the big bulky kind). In a pinch? Someone’s selling a plastic poncho every 50ft or so, and they’re actually quite popular with the locals, so you’ll fit right in.

Temperature
I read that Hanoi would feel much colder than the actual temperature, but that wasn’t the case for me. The weather predicted temperatures in the range of about 60-77, and that felt exactly right to me. I did not need a jacket (even at night) at those temperatures. I do hear it gets much colder from December through February, so of course, adjust accordingly. 

Shopping
If your only destinations are Hanoi and Hoi An, I’d prioritize shopping in Hanoi. While old town Hoi An is basically one giant market, we found more interesting and unique products in Hanoi.

WHERE TO STAY

HOTEL du LAC Signature

While there are so many answers to this question, we stayed at the HOTEL du LAC SIGNATURE in the Old Quarter, and I cannot recommend it more. The staff were so kind and attentive, and the rooms were spotless. I recommend a room on a higher up floor to mitigate street noise. Also, the view never gets old, and you can keep an eye on if it’s raining or not. For a city with as much motorcycle honking as Hanoi, I was able to get a great night’s sleep (though I did wear ear plugs – these are my fave). 

I’m not usually a fan of hotel breakfasts, because I find them inauthentic and loveless, but this one was an exception to the rule. Gorgeous view, and there were new and custom food options every day, meaning: they’re not just pedaling leftovers.

The highlight of the hotel was the all seasons heated pool. Weather in Hanoi is notoriously fickle, so an indoor pool is a convenient thing to rely on. Perfectly heated and situated among cute decor, this was the perfect respite after a day of dodging motorcycles. 

NEIGHBORHOODS TO EXPLORE

The Old Quarter
This is an obvious first stop. Sure, it’s touristy, but it’s also the tourist center for a reason. At the heart of The Old Quarter is Hoan Kiem Lake, and a stroll around it is an absolute must. 

The French Quarter 
Use the Opera house as your destination point and explore the most chi chi part of Hanoi. The French Quarter has a definitive Beverly Hills vibe, with lots of luxury brand names you’ll recognize like Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Gucci. 

West Lake
Northwest of the Old Quarter, this felt like the Brooklyn of Hanoi. It’s a bit more laid back and also a hub for ex-pats. Start your exploration at the Tran Quoc Pagoda, then follow the lake and see where it takes you. 

FOOD AND DRINK

The Note Coffee

Just across the street from Hoan Kiem lake is the most magical five-ish story cafe covered in post-it notes with messages from travelers around the world. Order at the front (the salt coffee was a standout here and around Vietnam) then climb your way to a colorful spot to read and write up notes to stick on the wall.

Loading T Cafe
They grind their coffee with cinnamon, and it’s just so cute and eclectic inside this Old Quarter establishment. They have an illustrated menu featuring the most popular Vietnamese style coffees. The yogurt coffee was the standout for us. 

Banh Mi Oi
This was my favorite Banh Mi I had in Vietnam! The staff was very kind and you get to sit on the little stools and people-watch outside, which feels oh so Hanoi. Perfect lunch spot in the Old Quarter.

Phở Gia Truyền Bát Đàn
There are rumors that this is the best Pho in Hanoi. We can’t vouch for that, as we barely skimmed the surface of pho in Hanoi, but we did very much enjoy this busy spot in the Old Quarter. There will be a line, but the staff navigates the crowds masterfully. If you’re on the squeamish side about mean (I certainly can be!), I’d recommend skipping the “medium rare” options. 

Hanoi-Oi
Definitely caters to tourists in the Old Quarter, but hey, sometimes you are what you are. We found the food to be higher quality but also a bit less flavorful than more local spots. Get the Bun Cha – it’s the staple food of Hanoi.

Cuốn Ngon
While in Hanoi, it’s worth it to try a hot pot restaurant. At Cuốn Ngon, we got spring rolls and a Northern-style crab porridge (we went with the small size, and it was plenty for two).It was fun to cook at our table, and the porridge was rich and thick (in a good way!). The flavor got better and better as all the ingredients melded together. Note: this restaurant is a bit off the Old Quarter path, and doesn’t seem to get a lot of tourists, so you may encounter some minor communication snafus. Pair it with a trip to Not Cocktail.  

Not Cocktail Bar
This bar was super trendy with low lights and hip bartenders. To be honest, the cocktails didn’t live up to what you can get in NYC or LA, but the vibe was worth it. The bartenders were very committed to the Instagrammable drinks they were concocting, and the bar brought us to a neighborhood that felt a lot more local than the Old Quarter. 

SHOPPING

Grade B

It was impossible not to buy everything at this peaceful shop located in the French Quarter. I loved the tiled flooring. 

Tired City
You’ll find several of these across the Old Quarter and also in Hoi An. The trendy shop sells prints, tees, and other goods featuring the work of Vietnamese artists.

Gingko
Gingko is a higher end clothing (and more!) shop that is scattered around the Old Quarter of Hanoi and Hoi an. Their modern designs feature distinctly Vietnamese patterns, and the fabrics feel very high quality. 

Cerender Ceramics
Can you tell I just can’t get enough of ceramics? Each item feels so special and so specifically designed. You can lose quite a bit of time (in a wonderful way) here. 

THINGS TO DO/SEE:

Train Street

You’ve probably seen this on Instagram. It’s a street where you can sit at a cafe while a train drives mere inches from your face. The schedule of the train is fairly unpredictable, but you can ask your hotel for its vague itinerary. The cafe owners on the street will know when the next train is coming. If it’s coming soon, it’s worth it to stop in for a drink, but I wouldn’t lose a whole hour waiting for the train. The area feels like a tourist trap, but I think it’s a worthwhile one. Go get those instapics! 

Hoan Kiem Lake
The heart of the Old Quarter, a stroll around this lake is a must! Sunset is a great time, but also any time is.

Temple of Literature
I personally found this to be a bit of a let down. It was overcrowded with tourists, and there are definitely more impressive temples across Southeast Asia. That said, I’d still recommend it as a destination. It’s a lively walk from the Old Quarter. 

Tran Quoc Pagoda 
This temple is quite a bit further out from the Old Quarter than the Temple of Literature, which lends to fewer crowds and a more peaceful experience. I found it more aesthetically pleasing too. We walked from the Old Quarter, which was a trek, but totally worth it. We stopped for a Swan Boat paddle boat ride at Truc Bach Lake on the way. This is an excellent starting point for a day exploring Hanoi’s West Lake neighborhood. 

Women’s Museum
We didn’t have time for it on our short trip, but would like to see it the next time we’re in town! A receptionist at our hotel said it was her favorite place in Hanoi. 

The most important thing to do in Hanoi: wander. You’ll find lots to see and do on your path. Happy travels!